Tension-Set Rings: Types, Gemstones, and How to Care

Gemstones are held between the metal of the ring without using prongs in this setting. The stone is secured in its place using the metal's tension. It symbolizes balance, strength, and a fresh style of love. Precision engineering uses laser calibration to make grooves at both ends of the ring, which provides maximum space to the stone for sparkle. This setting is customized according to the specific size of the gemstone to fit it securely. Tiny grooves were also made on both edges of the band horizontally to place the stones on the band instead of just center placement. 

What Are the Different Types of Tension-Set Rings?

Here are the five different types of tension-set rings:

1. Classic Tension-Set Rings: A single gemstone is placed between the ends of the band in this setting. It provides a clean, modern, and minimalist look. Gemstones appear to float on the band. 
2. Tension-Style Rings: In this style, the stone is placed with the help of a bezel setting that is kept hidden to maintain the floating appearance of the stone. It provides peace of mind along with tension setting.
3. Side-Stone Tension Rings: This design is accented with a center stone along with small stones set on the sides of the band. It gives maximum sparkle and makes the design more complex. 
4. Double Band Tension Rings: A double-band tension ring features two parallel metal bands that secure the gemstone through applied pressure. It creates a bold and architectural look.
5. Mixed Metal Tension Rings: Designers use different metals to create an artistic and unique design. For example, platinum, a white metal, is mixed with rose gold to create a modern, unique style. 

Which Gemstones Are Best for Tension Settings?

Here are the four gemstones that are best for tension settings:

1. Diamonds: This is the hardest stone, ranking 10 on the Mohs scale, which makes it a usable stone for everyday wear. Diamonds are resistant to scratches and have good toughness, resisting chipping. The high refractive index of diamond 2.417-2,419 allows it to bend and disperse light, creating colorful and white flashes of light. The specific gravity of diamond is  3.50–3.53, which makes it heavier and denser than other metals. 
2. Sapphires and Rubies: These stones are varieties of the mineral corundum with a 9 score on the Mohs scale. They also exhibit a phenomenon called pleochroism, which means that when viewed from different angles, they show different colors. The refractive index of both stones is 1.762-1.778, which makes them brilliant gemstones. Sapphires are available in almost all colors except red, while rubies are rich red in color due to the presence of chromium.
3. Topaz or Spinel: Spinel is an affordable stone with high durability. It score of 8/10 on the Mohs hardness scale. There’s no cleavage point on the spinel means if it strikes, it’ll not split easily, which makes it suitable for tension setting rings. It offers good brilliance with a 1.718 refractive index. The drawback of topaz is that it has perfect basal cleavage, which is prone to splitting under excessive pressure. Designers prefer using hidden support along with tension-style to enhance its durability and strength. 
4. Avoid Soft Stones: Opal and pearl have a 2.5-6.5 score on the Mohs hardness scale, which reduces their availability for tension-style settings. High content of water in opal makes it prone to mechanical stress, sudden shock, and temperature changes. Pearls are organic matter, susceptible to acids, scratches, and pressure. They cannot endure the tension-style compression. 

What Metals Are Commonly Used for Tension-Set Rings?

Here are the four metals that are commonly used for tension-set rings:

1. Titanium: It is the most durable and lightweight metal, perfect for tension-style setting. Jewelers use this metal as an alternative to bulkier and durable metals to create a thinner metal band. The hypoallergenic and biocompatible nature of the titanium makes it a comfortable option for anyone prone to irritation. 
2. Platinum: The denser structure of this metal made it durable and tarnish-resistant. Platinum naturally retains its bright, silvery color without needing any rhodium coating. It is more noticeable as it's heavier than titanium and gold, yet softer to withstand the tension. The band size becomes thicker to increase its strength, due to which it is difficult to resize except through an expert jeweler. 
3. Stainless Steel: The affordability and strength of stainless steel make it the best alternative to precious metals. Stainless steel can easily bear the tension-style pressure and is resistant to scratches and corrosion. 316L is considered the surgical-grade steel, recommended for its durability. 
4. White or Yellow Gold: The quality of gold is measured in karats. 24 karat gold is considered the purest form, which is too soft to use; it’s mixed with other metals to create balance and enhance its durability. White gold is created through the mixture of palladium and yellow gold with silver and copper. These alloys are durable and can be used in a tension-style setting. 

How to Choose the Right Tension-Set Ring?

Here are the four steps to choose the right tension-style ring:

1. Pick a Durable Gemstone: Choose a suitable gemstone according to the preferences and lifestyle. For example, an active lifestyle needs a durable gemstone with maximum strength to withstand daily wear and tear, along with the tension-style pressure. Diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and moissanite are commonly known for their durability. 
2. Select a Strong Metal: The metal offers the right flexibility and strength to hold the stone firmly in place. Platinum, titanium, or stainless steel provides maximum strength for everyday wear. In the case of gold, ensure that the gold is thick enough to endure the pressure.
3. Match Your Style: Tension-style rings can be personalized to match the wearer’s individual style and preferences. Choose from classic solitaire designs or minimalist modern designs. 
4. Check Gem Visibility: Ensure the design allows maximum light to reach the stone for maximum sparkle. It enhances the brilliance of the gemstone, which is the primary benefit of this setting. 
5. Consider Comfort Fit: Choose the rings with rounded or smooth edges that do not cause irritation to the skin. The focus on the tension should only apply to the stone; the ring needs to be comfortable and tension-free for formal or routine wear. 
6. Confirm Precision Craftsmanship: Tension setting is complex and needs a jeweler with special expertise to design it accurately. Check the setting carefully before buying, as the fraudulent jewelers use the bezel setting to secure the stone, yet claim it is a tension-set ring.

Are Tension-Set Rings Secure and Durable?

Yes, a tension set ring is durable and secure if crafted carefully. These designs require an engineering-level precision for strength. An expert jeweler made tiny grooves in the band to ensure the grooves are slip-free for the stone to fit precisely. Gemstones' shardness plays an important role in their longevity. The rings need to be sized properly while manufacturing, as resizing affects the tension, which can result in stone loosening. They remain secure for daily use when made from quality materials and skilled jewelers.

How to Care for and Maintain Tension-Set Rings?

Use mild soap and warm water to wash the ring weekly. Avoid using harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners while wearing the ring, as they can cause scratches on the gemstones and affect their brilliance. Check the stone’s alignment and the tension daily to ensure the stones stay safe. Keep the ring in its own box or pouch to prevent it from getting scratched by other pieces, and also keep its travel case while traveling.